Restaurant reviews for restaurants that are very good or very bad are easy (and fun) to write. It’s the restaurant that falls somewhere in the middle that makes it hard on those of us who feel compelled to write about what they eat. That said, Mastrioni’s, located in Summerlin on Hualapai is somewhere in the middle.

Very good bread and excellent service weren’t enough to salvage an early Friday evening visit to this comfortable, neighborhood restaurant.

We shared an average antipasti platter that was nicely presented.
We may be jaded by the outrageously good antipasti served a few blocks away at Due Forni; this version was nothing more than supermarket lunchmeat and cheese garnished with olives, artichoke hearts and roasted pepper strips from a jar (and we had to ask for bread). Not worth the $15 price tag.

Equally overpriced was a $15 fried calamari appetizer served with a side of overly sweet marinara sauce.

The calamari was tasteless and could have been improved by a few more seconds on a paper towel to drain some of the oil from the bland coating.

Non-descript fettuccini arrived floating in an abundance of soupy Alfredo sauce.

The chicken cubes served with it were tasteless, but not offensive. Yes, fettuccini Alfredo is a neutral dish, but at $18, this version must be a major profit maker for the restaurant.

To be fair, we didn’t order any of the seafood specialties on the menu. However, at prices that match or exceed those at high-end restaurants on the Strip, we hesitated to make an investment on the unknown. It turned out to be a wise decision.

Our dinner wasn’t miserable by any means. Our server was efficient and charming. We did enjoy the bread, but outstanding Italian fare and seafood is being served all over the valley at prices that aren’t quite so outrageous. Mastrioni’s is in a great location in our own neighborhood and we’d love to call ourselves regulars should the quality & pricing ever come together.

3330 South Hualapai Way (at Desert Inn)
Las Vegas, NV 89117
(702) 367-7511

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